Teardrops of Love Part 3: Stitching Basics - Long Edges and Easy Turns

I'm excited to share Part 3 of "Teardrops of Love - a needle turn applique tutorial".  Part 3 focuses on Stitching Basics - Long Edges and Easy Turns. 

Specifically we will cover:

• thread color
• threading and knotting your needle
• hiding your knot 
• needle turn stitch 
• curves
• making a turn at an outer point 
• finishing off your stitching

If you missed Parts 1 and 2 of Teardrops of Love you can review them here:

Part 1: Tools
Part 2: Marking, Cutting and Basting Shapes

You can also download the Teardrops of Love PDF Summary and Shapes Template (to be updated with Part 3 soon) from my right sidebar.   

I LOVE feedback -- so please, if you have other tips and tricks and would like to share them with the readers please comment below for all to see.

Lets get started:

Our shapes are traced, marked, cut and basted onto the background fabric -- now for thread selection.  If you missed learning about my favorite threads - click here for a review in the Thread section.  I always choose from an Aurifil or Mettler thread -- they work for me -- I love them both.

Audition thread color:

... that you have in your stash -- if nothing matches exactly lean toward using a slightly darker shade (rather than a lighter one) - I think it blends better.  For this teardrop I chose to go with the Aurifil Mako 50Wt #2460.  It worked perfectly.

Cut threads: 

... Cut about 18 inches of thread from the spool.  Thread your "Ultra Fine" threader through the eye of the needle and then place one end of your thread through the guide to the left of the needle.  Hold the threader securely where the metal meets the paper and gently slide the thread through the eye of the needle by pulling the needle in the opposite direction of the threader paper guide.

Why 18 inches ?  You want to start small so you're not getting frustrated with your thread getting in the way or getting knotted as you stitch.  As you gain confidence you can use larger pieces of thread.  Be safe now, get comfortable, learn and gain confidence.   You CAN do it !!

A Quilters Knot:  

I was taught to make a quilters knot to avoid twisting a knot into my thread.  You want to avoid twists in your thread if you can (they make unwanted knots while you are stitching).  Follow these simple directions to make a quilters knot:

1.  Hold the threaded needle in your right hand (if you are right handed).
2.  Lay the long end of your thread over the top of the needle
3.  Secure this end against the needle with your thumb

 

4.  Loop the loose thread (to the left) under then over the needle 3 times

5.  Pinch the loops against the needle with your thumb and index finger and use your left hand to pull the needle, sliding the loops down the needle, over the eye, and all the way down the length of the thread making a knot at the end of your thread.

A Quilters Knot:

Try it a few times and learn a Quilters Knot - avoid using the twist method of making a knot. 

Time to Stitch - Yippee !

To get started choose a spot on your applique piece not immediately next to an inside or outside corner/point.  I chose to start about an inch away from the point of the teardrop.  This gives me some room to get in the swing of stitching before I need to stitch the actual point.

Note:  If you are working on a leaf or a piece where the alignment is critical, start near the critical alignment area so you can manipulate where the pieces come together.  This will make sense as you progress in your applique.

Once you've chosen your starting point, gather your fabric in your left hand.   Here is an image of how I hold my applique piece in my left hand.

... If you are left handed I apologize - please do the opposite of what I mention -- so sorry.

Your left hand does a TON of work for needle turn applique.  It holds and positions the fabric, it creases the fabric, it gives stability and it acts as a guide for your right hand to actually stitch -- don't underestimate the importance of this hand.  It is working above and below your applique piece at all times.

Bury your knot:

No need to have unsightly knots on the back side of your background fabric, bury your knot in the crease of your applique piece by coming up from the wrong side of the applique fabric.

See the knot on the back side of your applique piece.
 

Turn, Crease, Stitch, Repeat:

Now, use your needle to begin to turn the seam allowance under.  Press your needle into the fabric on the seam allowance and sweep the seam allowance under. 

 Continue to use your needle (and fingers if necessary) to work the seam allowance under to the inside marked line.  Once it's under, use your left thumb to crease the fabric so it will "stay" for stitching.

**  Don't crease too much - you want to maintain that 3 dimensional appearance for your applique - I LOVE the 3D effect!

Stitch:

Take your stitch by aligning the tip of your needle where the thread came up (from securing your knot), dropping behind the applique crease bury your needle to the back of the background fabric.

Travel an 1/8th of an inch behind the background fabric and when you come back to the top of the fabric grab "just a pinch" of the applique crease to secure it to the background.

** You are going to repeat this series of actions over and over.

1. Use the needle to turn the seam allowance under to the inside mark
2. Crease the turn with your left thumb and left hand fingers
3. Place the tip of the needle under where your last stitch exited the top of the fabric
4. Travel behind the background fabric about 1/8th of an inch
5. Bring the tip of the needle through the background and grab "just a pinch" of the creased applique fabric to secure it.

Over and 

 over and

over

Again...

Things to consider:

• Don't pull your stitch too taut - it will show a ripple or gathered effect on the applique
• Turn your seam allowance as you go - don't get too far ahead of yourself -  you can turn further ahead on a straight edge than on a curved edge. 

• Take smaller stitches when you are on a curve or nearing an inside or outside turn.
• On a really tight curve you might take one stitch and one turn each time - doing this will allow you to create a very rounded edge with no flat spots.
• Don't be hard on yourself - it's a learned motion - the comfort level will increase over time and with practice.

After a little more wash, rinse and repeat -- here is an image of the back side of the background fabric

 So we've worked ourselves up to the point of the teardrop - there are a few things to consider:

• As you approach a turning point, take smaller stitches to secure the area and prepare to stitch the point.

• Continue to turn, crease and stitch until you've reached the inside mark of the point.

•  Take a stitch at the point of the turn.

•  Now take an extra "in place" stitch at the inside mark of the point - this helps stabilize the point for you to turn

•  Turn your fabric, prepare to turn the point under and stitch down the other side.  If there is excess fabric at the point, trim it off.  In the teardrop point there is no excess to be trimmed.

•   Use the needle to grab both layers of applique fabric and turn both layers under the teardrop point.  The picture is deceiving - the needle does not go through the background fabric - only through the two layers of applique fabric.

•  Turning the layers at the point under.  Once turned, use your left thumb and fingers to secure the turn - preparing to stitch it in place.

•  Once the fabric point is turned and tucked under use thumb to secure it.

•  Stitch just to the left of the point to secure it.  If necessary use the needle or a toothpick to smooth the fabric under the point.  Continue to wash, rinse and repeat taking smaller stitches near the point to secure the double layer of fabric under the point.

•   Take smaller stitches near the point to secure the fabric

•  Continue to turn the fabric, crease and stitch toward the original starting point.  Because this is a long straight edge, feel free to turn and crease ahead, aligning the edge with the original starting point.

•  Continue to stitch and allow a few stitches to overlap at the original starting point.

•  Finish top thread by stitching past the original starting point and then pushing the needle to the back of the fabric.

• This view of the backside of the applique shows you the slight overlap in stitching and where the finishing thread came through from the front.

•  Once you've double checked the front of the applique to make sure the thread is not loose or caught - stitch three "in place" stitches in the back to secure/knot the applique thread.

•  This image shows the three small or "in place" stitches and the thread buried between the background and the applique.   Trim the thread where it exits the fabric from being buried.

• WOW - you're almost there.  Now flip your applique back to the front and admire your beautiful work.  You've learned alot in this session so take it all in and know that you'll get better each time you do it.  

•  Now lets cut those basting threads here and there on the front of your applique (use care to NOT cut your applique shape !!).   After the basting thread is cut in a few places it should pull right out of the shape exposing your somewhat finished teardrop!!   Yippee!!

 

• There it is, your first teardrop is stitched down !  Wasn't that fun (I really think it's fun - I hope you do too!). 

If you've followed me this far -- Congratulations -- your well on your way to beautiful Needle Turned Applique!!   This tutorial can be followed to stitch down the remainder of your teardrops.

Stop by again for Part 4:  Continuing Needle Turn - Points Inside and Out.  Part 4 will cover stitching the hearts on the teardrop.  I'm getting excited to finish this top with you.

Until next time -- I hope you had a blessed Christmas and wishing everyone a Happy New Year!

Hugs,
Karen

From Our Home to Yours...

Oh tidings of comfort and joy!

May you be blessed with time to spend with those you love.

Merry Christmas fellow quilters...

Hugs,

Karen

And the Giveaway Winner is:

Thank you all for participating in Giveaway Day !  What a wonderful week of Giveaway's its been!   There were a total of 197 comments on the Giveaway Day post and many visitors new to my blog decided to follow -- welcome aboard!    I didn't exactly tally the responses to my question but I think "piecing" wins the majority vote!    I'm always in awe at those who have the patience and skill to piece - it's definitely not my strong point.

 Before I announce the winner let me share again "Teardrops of Love - a needle turn applique tutorial".   The first two Parts of the tutorial have been published;   Part 1: Tools and Part 2: Marking, Cutting and Basting.  There is also a PDF summary posted on my sidebar where you'll find the Applique Templates for the tutorial.  Stay tuned for Part 3...

If you're at all interested in Needle Turn Applique I would Love to have you follow along with the tutorial and let me know what you think.   I'm really excited to share my love of applique with others.

I'm also working on a Holiday version of my Family Tree Quilted Envelope Pillow.  You can see the original post here - and the free pattern & tutorial on the Moda Bake Shop here.   My goal is to have it done before Christmas -- keeping my fingers crossed.

 Now lets talk about our winner.... drum roll please... Mr Random Generator did the legwork tonight:

Here is comment number 113:

Congratulations Jessica!  Like many others I too love working on the binding.  There is something about the hand stitching that is so very relaxing.   I'll get your package in the mail Monday! 

We're expecting some snow this weekend -- perfect for sewing and preparing for the holidays.

May you all be blessed with time to share with your families this holiday.

Hugs,
Karen

Teardrops of Love Part 2: Marking, Cutting and Basting Shapes

Welcome to Part 2 of  "Teardrops of Love - a needle turn applique tutorial".   Part 2 focuses on Marking, Cutting and Basting Shapes.

If you missed Part 1: Tools -- click here to read about my favorite tools for Needle Turn Applique and a brief description of how I got started and a little bit about the ladies from whom I learned.

I've posted a PDF (see sidebar) which includes a summary of Part 1 (Tools) and Part 2 (Marking, Cutting and Basting Shapes), along with the Shapes Template needed to follow along with the tutorial.

Let's get started with Part 2:  Marking, Cutting and Basting Shapes

Using the Shapes Template in the "Teardrops of Love" PDF (sidebar) - prepare your freezer paper applique shapes using 1 of 2 methods: 

1.  Run a sheet of freezer paper (paper side up) through your desktop printer - printing the template at 100% scale on the paper side of the freezer paper sheet.

OR

2. Print the Shapes Template on paper and trace the designs onto freezer paper with a black marker or pen.

The Shapes Template includes three different sizes of teardrops and hearts.  I mixed and matched the sizes for the tutorial.  You may want to start with the larger teardrop and heart and work your way to the smaller pieces after a little practice.

Once your shapes are printed or traced onto freezer paper - cut the shapes out along the printed or traced line.

Next, choose the fabrics you want to use for your applique pieces and background.

I used a Charm Pack of "Panier DeFleurs" by French General for Moda for my applique and an 11 x 15 inch piece of neutral French General fabric for the background.  I LOVE French General!

Now position the freezer paper shape on the right side of your applique fabric - be sure to leave 1/8th to 1/4 inch of fabric around the outside of the shape (avoid placing the shape flush in the corner or on an edge).

If you are using more than one shape per piece of fabric, be sure to leave a good 1/4  inch of clearance between the shapes.  This is the edge that will get Needle Turned in a later step.

Iron the freezer paper to the applique fabric with a medium heat dry iron.   Don't be afraid to press hard -- you'll want the freezer paper to adhere well so you can trace around it with your marking tools.

After ironing the freezer paper shape to your applique fabric, place the fabric/shape unit on your Sandboard. 

If you don't have a sandboard, place your unit on any course/rough surface.  This will help stabilize the fabric when marking around the outside of the freezer paper shape.

Now use one of your marking tools to trace around the outside of the freezer paper shape while it rests on your sandboard.  Use your fingers to gently press on the freezer paper while you trace around it with a marking tool.  Marking tools were discussed in this post. 

I used Soapstone to mark the solid red fabric:

A Sewline Pink Fabric Pencil was used on the lighter fabric:

Sewline Pink Fabric Pencil was used on this one too!

Once you've marked around the outside of the template shape,  press around the outside of the freezer paper shape with a Hera Marker.  

The Hera marker will put a crease in the fabric - just enough that when you begin to Needle Turn the crease will enable the fabric to turn a bit easier.

Below is the back side of the teardrop after being marked with soapstone and traced with the Hera Marker.  If you look closely (click on the photo to make it larger), you can just see the indentation in the fabric to the left of the Hera Marker.

Once you've marked and creased your applique shape, you can remove the freezer paper from the fabric.  Be sure you can clearly see the mark once your freezer paper is removed.

Next get out those wonderful Elan serrated edge scissors and trim appx 1/8 inch around the outside of your marked line.  Remember to include the width of your mark in your overall calculation (if your mark is already 1/16 of an inch wide then just cut another 1/16 of an inch outside of the mark).

** Optionally -- leave your freezer paper attached while you cut around the outside of your mark.  The freezer paper helps stabilize your fabric while you are cutting.

Don't fret too much over the width of the cut edge -- You'll always find a way to turn that fabric under - if the edge is to wide, you can trim it - if its too narrow then you'll get creative and use a toothpick or your finger ;)

I've marked and cut a handful of pieces and placed them onto my background fabric.

Now, in preparation for basting, secure the applique pieces to the background fabric with a few Clover Applique Pins.

Ah the JOY of basting.  For me personally, I get really irritated when my applique thread gets caught on pins.  So basting is very relaxing and rewarding for me.  Once a piece is basted and all of the pins are removed, I can sit in a comfortable chair, watch TV, listen to a book or the birds and just stitch.  It's that warm feeling of doing handwork with no interruptions!  I LOVE IT!

I baste with the applique and background laying flat on a hard surface (The June Tailor Cut 'n Press comes in handy for this). Thread a Straw Milliners needle with 12-18 inches of YLI Basting Thread. 

Use your fingers to gently stabilize your fabric while you baste.

Begin basting by taking two small whip stitches (in place) at your starting point.  Doing this will allow you to baste without knotting your thread - allowing your thread to pull out easily once your Needle Turn is complete.

Once you've secured your basting thread continue to baste with a running stitch along the outer edge of your applique piece.

Take several stitches at a time if you're comfortable with it.  Don't pull your thread too taut - you don't want any puckers in your fabric.

Continue around the applique and secure the end of the basting thread as you started it -- with a couple of small whip stitches (in place).  Cut your thread and move on to the next piece to be basted.

If you're just starting out, don't baste your heart shapes until you've Needle Turned your teardrops.  Take a picture of the layout and set the hearts aside for now.

Well -- that sure was a LONG post.  If you have questions or suggestions please leave me a comment -- I love to hear and learn about better methods of doing things.

Stay tuned next week for Part 3: Getting Started with Long Edges - where we actually start to needle turn and stitch!  Woohoo!

Thanks for stopping by and have a wonderful week!
Hugs,
Karen

Giveaway Day!

Happy Monday all!  I'm excited to be participating in Giveaway Day hosted by Sew Mama Sew!  A week long party full of blogger giveaways!

I'm giving away a book and some fabric to one lucky winner!

First up Pat Sloan's "Camera, Colors, Quilts!" book.  This book has 6 patterns ranging from table runners to full sized quilts. 

Pat shares how to evaluate a photo for color and turn those colors into one of her glorious quilts!  

If you're a blogger you're probably already addicted to photography -- this book allows you to meld photography with quilting -- fun, fun!.  Color pictures, great patterns -- you cant go wrong.

And to get a jump start making one of the patterns in the book I have three Fat Quarters to give away with the book!

The top fabric is "Angelica" by Amy Butler in her Cameo Collection -- isn't it pretty ? 
Additionally, there are two shades of "Nouveau Riche" by Hoffman Fabrics -- also very pretty and they go well with the Amy Butler fabric ! 

For a chance to win leave a comment on this post telling me what you like best about quilting.  Is it the piecing, the applique, the quilting, or some other aspect?

For an extra chance to win become a follower and leave me a separate comment letting me know how you decided to follow.

For those of you that already follow -- leave a second comment so you have a 2nd chance to win !!   Followers make the blogging world go-round -- thank you all so much !

This giveaway will be open until Dec. 13, 2013 at 8 p.m. EST and to US addresses only.

If you are a no-reply blogger -- be sure to leave me your email address in your comments.

For those of you waiting for Part 2 of Teardrops of Love - A Needle Turn Tutorial  -- I'll have that post out a little later this week.  I had so much fun this weekend with our grandchildren that I haven't quite finished it.   Thanks for your patience. 

Now, be sure to visit all the other giveaways over at Sew Mama Sew's blog.  

Last I looked there where nearly 200 giveaways of Quilting Supplies (patterns and fabrics) and nearly 100 giveaways of Handmade Items. 

Have a wonderful week all!
Hugs,
Karen 

Teardrops of Love - a needle turn applique tutorial - Part 1: Tools

Hi all -- today I'm thrilled to share Part I of Teardrops of Love - a needle turn applique tutorial.

I've had many comments and questions on my needle turn applique so in hopes of getting others to give it a try I've decided to write a multi-part tutorial on the topic.  My goal is to get others to fall in love with Needle Turn Applique as I have.

Before we dive into the details of Part 1, I would like to give special thanks to the two ladies from whom I learned Needle Turn Applique.  One of my very first quilting classes was a two day Hand Applique Retreat by Sharon Stroud (Click here for Sharon's Blog - She's out of her mind!).  Amongst many other things, Sharon is the author of "Dresden Plates of Distinction" published by AQS. I was fortunate to attend Sharon's Hand Applique retreat which focused on her Dancing Flowers design.  Sharon shares a wealth of information in this class -- I highly recommend taking any class from her. 

Below is a picture of my Dancing Flowers flimsy (I have yet to complete it -- but I do have a plan - you can see it here). 

After a year of playing with Needle Turn applique I took another class at a different QS from instructor Debbie Wick.  Debbie taught "Winter Apple" by Blackbird Designs.  Debbie's method of needle turn is slightly different than Sharon's but the end results are just as beautiful.  Again I would highly recommend taking any class from Debbie. One of Debbie's beautiful cotton and wool applique designs was recently published in the Winter edition of Primitive Quilts and Projects Magazine.  You can visit Debbie's blog here.  Below is an image of one of my Winter Apple Pomegranates as taught and kitted by Debbie Wick:

Both of these special ladies have helped shape my quilting life -- I'm grateful to have learned from them. I cherish their skill, patience and guidance and I owe them a ton of credit.  They both have so much to offer to their students that I highly recommend you take a class with them if you're in the area.  Thanks again Sharon and Debbie.

Now, onto Part 1 of Teardrops of Love:  Tools  - a few of my favorite things

Fabric:  

Always, always, always use quilt shop quality fabric for hand applique.  Good fabric frays less and is easier to manage - not to mention how well it washes and wears.  Please consider that you're putting many hours into an heirloom piece that you want to last forever and ever.  In my opinion, high quality fabric is the only way to go. 

For this tutorial you'll use a fat quarter of a neutral background fabric and some 5x5 inch scraps of fabric -- I used one of my favorite French General Charm packs.

Marking Tools:

Always be sure that whatever you mark your fabric with washes, brushes, irons, or erases out without damaging the fabric.  I have had very good luck with the following tools:

1. Soapstone - works great on darker colors, highly visible, brushes away -  find at Joann Fabric
2. Sewline Fabric Pencils with Ceramic Leads - pink and yellow are my favorite - pink works great on lighter colors too
3. Prismacolor Verithin pencils - metallic grey works great on light or dark fabrics
4. Clover Hera Marker - for an extra "edge" before or after marking

We will talk more about the use of these tools in Part 2: Marking, Cutting and Basting Shapes

Basting & Cutting Tools:

You've probably heard me say this before -- I try to avoid glue and glue based products on my cotton and wool applique pieces.  So I'll avoid talking about them here and focus on what I do use:

1. YLI Basting and Bobbin Thread - my favorite - it's inexpensive, works through fabric easily and will break and tear away if necessary
2. Clover Applique Pins -- they are short and sweet -- great to tack your applique for basting or use for basting in a pinch
3. Elan 4 inch Embroidery Scissors - they have serrated edges on them so your fabric won't slip while being trimmed -- I LOVE them !

Template Tools:

1. Quilters Freezer Paper in 8.5 x 11 inch sheets works great for smaller designs and will feed through a printer if your pattern provides an electronic image.  If you have a large applique design you may use Reynolds Freezer paper or larger sheets of Quilters Freezer Paper.

2. Template Plastic -- if your applique has shapes that repeat often (like leaves or berries or flower petals that are re-used throughout your design), you may want to consider using template plastic.   I use Dritz and have sheets that are heat resistant and some that are not.

Sewing Tools:

Ahhh -- we're getting to the meat and potatoes now...

1. Thread: <NOTE - This tutorial series was written before Aurifil announced their 80wt/2ply thread.  You need only use it once to realize it is the best choice for needle turn applique. >  I began my needle turn learning adventure using one of Mettler 60Wt/3ply fine embroidery thread or Aurifil Mako Cotton 50wt/2ply thread and match your applique colors.  Both worked very well.  I've tried others and let me say this: you'll be happy to go back to one of these if you try others ;)   
2. Needles:  I've used a few different needles but I always seem to come back to John James Sharps Size 11.  Remember with these needles the lower the number the smaller the needle. Use the smallest size needle that you can handle comfortably.  I've used smaller ones in the past but I sometimes get cramps in my hands while sewing -- the JJ size 11 Sharps work best for me.
3. Needle Threader -- "Ultra Fine Threader" - - I know there are "automatic" ones in the market place, but these little devils work great, they are easy to transport and use!   Seems my eyes have more trouble each year getting those small threads into the small eyes of the needles.  The Ultra Fine Threader works like a charm.

 

Optional Tools:

These tools can be a little pricey when you're first getting started -- so ease into purchasing them when you can spare the $$.  I would recommend that you do plan to get them as they will make your applique experience more enjoyable.

1. Dritz Quilter's 3-Way Sandboard:  this board helps hold your fabric in place while it's being marked.  Without the sandboard it's more likely that your fabric will get a little wonky while your marking it (it may stretch and loose its shape).

2.  June Tailor Quilter's Cut 'n Press 1:  This small board has an ironing surface on one side and a cutting surface on the other.  It is perfect to rest your applique on while you are stitching.

Thanks so much for sticking with me as I ramble on about my favorite tools!     I will talk about the use of these tools in subsequent parts of this tutorial.  In the meantime, if you have any questions please leave me a comment or send me a message.

Stay tuned next week for Teardrops of Love Part 2: Marking, Cutting, and Basting Shapes.

Have a wonderful week all -- I leave you with one of my most favorite front yard Cardinal photos:

 

Hugs,

Karen

PS. As soon as I figure out how to do it I will attach a PDF version of the Tutorial Sections on my sidebar.  Thanks for your patience.