Feb 25: Top and Bottom Rectangles
I couldn't wait to add some free motion feathers to this project and as I inspected this section of the panel the print kept reading oval - oval - oval...
I wanted to highlight the space without taking away from the sweet gathering of sheep.
So.... out comes my supply of all things oval...
Including my
MacKenzie Childs!!
(Yes I am addicted to MacKenzie Childs Courtly Check)
I was in search of "just the right" oval to encompass the sheep but leave room for feathers.
Do you do this too ?
Rulers
Templates
Measuring Cups
Dinner Plates
Anything I could find...
In the end I was able to achieve just the right oval shape to prepare a paper template.
I didn't have card stock on hand so I improvised by ironing two pieces of freezer paper together (no steam) to make heavyweight paper.
Download your printable oval template PDF by clicking
here.
I traced the oval on the fabric with a purple air soluble marking pen.
Working with the outside of the oval cut-out gives you a "window" into the fabric.
Center the oval over the sheep and mark.
You can see that I folded my oval in half and marked the center of the fabric panel to align those two reference marks.
NOT required -- just another guide to follow.
Next -- I prepared my machine for Top Stitching (again!).
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I loaded the luscious Aurifil 12wt thread,
color #6722 from
The Subtle Sampler
with a complementary color
40wt or 50wt thread in the bobbin
and using a Superior (or Organ)
Titanium Coated Top Stitch Needle size 90/14 or 100/16.
and my walking foot
(aka even feed or dual feed) and
set a stitch length of 3.2...
I slowly stitched a beautiful oval line.
You'll need to lower your top tension a bit - give it a whirl on a scrap sandwich first.
To start and stop the top stitch I normally set my stitch length to 1.0 and take 4-6 stitches to "lock" the stitches in place -- always bringing the bobbin thread to the top beforehand.
At the end I'll do the same -- set the top stitch length back to 1.0 and take a few more tiny stitches to "lock" my threads. I then trim my threads flush (top and bobbin).
One round of top stitching done...
I think I'll add another !
It's like with FMQ -- If you're not sure what to do next -- ECHO IT!!
Using my foot as a spacing guide I placed a 2nd line of top stitching on the outside of the first line.
That 2nd line will act as a spine for the
soon-to-be-quilted feathers.
I absolutely adore how this 12Wt thread stitches out.
Next ...
Let's Talk Feathers
In Wendy's book you'll find some amazing instruction and inspiration for feathers!
Turn to page 55 and take some time to read through the 10+ pages of awesome information!
From the anatomy of a well-formed feather plume
to
feather wreaths and sashings...
Wendy's detail and instruction are fantastic!
About the thread
...for most of the remainder of the quilting on the panel you can choose to use a 50wt, 40wt or 28wt thread similar in color to the 12wt #6722 we've used for the top stitching.
Besides #6722 some of my favorite white-tone colors are #2021 & #2024
-- but there's also grey-tone colors that would work like #2600 and #2615.
There are also gentle green-tone colors like #2912, #2800 or #2830.
If you're using The Subtle Sampler -- you could even try out green-tone #2880 in 28wt or blue-tone #5006 in 40wt.
The weight and color you choose
depends on how much you want the thread to take center stage.
If I want the thread to blend into the background -- I'll use 50wt top and bobbin.
If I want the thread to be a little more noticeable -- I'll use a 40wt on top and 50wt in the bobbin.
If I really want my thread to stand out -- I'll use a 28wt (or a 12wt) on top and 50wt in the bobbin.
Fair warning -- if you've not FMQ'd with 12wt in the past -- you'll want to practice this a bit using at least a 90/14 needle -- 100/16 is preferred.
The reason you increase the size of the needle is so the eye of the needle is large enough to support the weight of the thread you choose.
When you FMQ with 12wt thread you'll stitch MUCH SLOWER than normal.
The results are amazingly beautiful but you want to take care to NOT shred that yummy embroidery weight thread.
See below for why I choose to use 40wt thread for the feathers...
As I mentioned, we'll use the outer ring of the top stitching as the spine for feather plumes and we'll follow the backtrack method (as Wendy shares) to stitch feathers around the entire oval.
I recorded a simple video of me stitching out the feathers.
To watch click
here -- or click the image below
FMQ Tips from the Video
Did you notice...
I use machingers gloves
and a suprememe slider.
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I always align my nose to the needle -- in other words... sit square in front of your machine.
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Frame your stitching space with your hands.
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Don't be a twister --
in other words...
the fabric should remain square in front of you while you're stitching -- just move BOTH HANDS in the shape you want to stitch out.
When your hands (or frame) get too close to the needle STOP with the needle in the down position, smooth out the stitching area and make a new frame.
These little things make a BIG difference in your results.
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Audition
It's always good to "audition" your design on a practice sandwich.
Be sure to use the same batting as your primary project.
This gives you an opportunity to test your needle size and tension settings.
In the "test drive" sample below I stitched inside feathers with 12wt and the outside feathers with a 40wt.
On the Lewe rectangles I choose to stitch with a 40wt thread. The buildup of the 12wt thread was a little much for the small space I was quilting in.
Do what looks good to your eye though.
On the image below notice that I started my feathers by stitching an "orange peel" base at the bottom center of the panel. That base acted as the 1st feather in the backtrack method that Wendy describes.
I stitched counter clock wise from bottom center to the right and up and then locked & cut my threads and started at the bottom again this time working clockwise back to the top along the left side of the oval.
Be sure to watch the
Lewe Feather video -->
here.
If you need a little more instruction for free motion feathers reference the detailed tutorial I wrote for Moda Bake Shop...
"Let's Quilt It -- A Valentine for You"
There are supporting YouTube Video's for the Valentine.
Click
here for them.
Lewe Rectangle detail...
More detail...
Once you're done with feathers you'll want to go inside the panel and echo quilt around the subject areas. You can use most any weight for that step.
I stayed with the 40wt thread.
To make a little definition I also stitched between the heads of the ewe.
Final step... I thought the grassy area needed a little something so I added a few loops with the 28wt Aurifil color #2880 from The Subtle Sampler.
You could also stitch the grassy spikes.
Or just pebbles...
You can see how Wendy stitches loops on page 31 of Stitching Pathways.
Well there you have it...
We used our 12wt thread for top stitching,
40wt for feathers and echo quilting,
and 28wt for a few loops.
Don't worry about making the top and bottom rectangles EXACTLY the same...
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I do NOT count feather plumes or make sure my design is exact.
And I Love, Love, Love the way it frames the subject area!
Do you ?
That's it - We tackled another section of the panel!!
Woohoo!!
Is this helpful ?
I can't wait to see what Wendy has in store.
If you have any questions, please leave them below -- I'll be sure to respond as soon as I can.
Here's a reminder on the upcoming schedule:
Future Posts...
March 4: Top and Bottom Squares
March 11: Left and Right Panels
March 18: Narrow Sashing
March 25: Outside Border
April 1: Binding, Labeling, Hanging if applicable
Happy Stitching!
Karen
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Learn more about how to use various thread weights in these Facebook Live Sessions
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